MILAN — Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reimagine jeans-inspired basics in leather and technical fabrics for the latest Prada collection unveiled Sunday (June 21) during Milan Fashion Week, saying they wanted menswear looks for people on the street, not just fashion insiders.
The new Prada uniform for next spring and summer: Slim, cropped jackets and five-pocket trousers, pulled together with timeless blazers or leather blousons.
“Sometimes you just realise you need a good pasta pomodoro,” Simons said before the show, referring to the Italian mealtime staple.
Prada’s pasta pomodoro
While the collection was inspired by jeans, Prada acknowledged she had never worn a pair in her life, while Simons said he had only recently returned to the everyday classic after two decades of wearing wool trousers year-round.
So against all odds, five-pocket trousers paired with flat-pocket jackets became the new Prada uniform, both slim and cropped.
Most looks were realised in luxurious, buttery leather in monochromes of antique white, grey, burgundy or turquoise that hit the runway to rock guitar riffs.
A subset appeared in nearly transparent white technical fabric more suited to Europe’s recent heatwave.
Only a handful of closing looks were fashioned from actual denim.
A smattering of cropped shirts and knitwear vests featured geometric patterns that were pulled together with clashing silk scarves tied around the midriff.
The only bags were colorful pouches worn at the waist, sometimes attached to thick belts. A pointy shoe with multiple Velcro straps finished the looks.
Back to the streets
Prada said the goal was a collection of pieces that were universal and to avoid “useless design”, which she added was “a lot of what’s around” on other runways.
Simons said the designers wanted to reconnect fashion with the way people actually dress, noting that some of fashion’s strongest ideas historically came “from the street” rather than being dictated by luxury brands and runways.
“It’s a clear silhouette, vertical, simple, sharp, proud. A lot of white, peaceful, hopeful, and cleansing,” Simons said.
“We think this collection is breaking the perception of what is perceived as typical luxury in high fashion.”
In the spirit of simplicity, the collection was presented in a bare showroom with transparent bench seating.
Everyone had a front-row view, with the VIP section hosting NBA superstar Anthony Edwards, South African-Australian singer and actor Troye Sivan, K-pop boy group Enhyphen and British actor Louis Partridge.
Crowds of excited fans withstood the early summer heatwave to greet their favourite celebrities.
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