It is evident that in the last 10 years, the range of Chinese food in Singapore has expanded beyond just Haidilao — a household name since its debut in the local market back in 2012.
To be clear, when we talk about Chinese food, we are not referring to the local dialectal cuisine that many of us grew up with in Singapore, but more “foreign” Chinese dishes that have been introduced within the last decade.
China F&B chains that have swiftly made a name for themselves locally after Haidilao include Tan Yu, which specialises in Sichuan-style grilled fish, halal noodle eatery Tongue Tip Lanzhou Beef Noodles, and sauerkraut fish specialist Tai Er, which arrived on our shores in 2021.
In recent years, the number of these eateries from China have mushroomed.
According to consulting firm Momentum Works, about 32 Chinese F&B brands were operating 184 outlets in Singapore at the end of June 2024.
But one doesn’t need to know the statistics to have a sense of the proliferation. Simply walk around the malls these days and one would be greeted by a multitude of China F&B brands — Scarlett supermarket and Mixue ice cream stands notwithstanding.
These China food concepts have become easily accessible and no longer located at hard-to-reach enclaves around Singapore.
Gone are the days when one had to head to Chinatown or Geylang for a taste of authentic mala hotpot or chuan chuan (barbeque skewers).
One of the newest Chinese F&B chains to arrive on our shores include Hunan cuisine chain Nong Geng Ji and Shu Da Xia Sichuan hot pot restaurant. Another is Qin Ji rou jia mo, which opened its first outlet here around two years ago and currently has nine stores islandwide. Rou jia mo or ‘rougamo’ as they are also known, are often referred to as “Chinese hamburgers”.
One may also have seen outlets of Xiang Xiang Hunan Cuisine, which was actually founded locally back in 2009. It opened its first store at Smith Street in Chinatown but in recent years have swiftly expanded to 15 outlets across Singapore.
In its report, Momentum Works indicated that the wave of expansion of Chinese F&B brands in Southeast Asia is a response to the challenges these companies face in their domestic market.
The fiercely competitive Chinese F&B market reportedly saw over a million F&B businesses shutting down within just the first half of 2024 — a 70 per cent increase from 2023.
According to a Lianhe Zaobao article published on Jan 5, Ang Yuit, president of the Association of Small & Medium Enterprises, stated that the push of domestic competition in China and the pull of the US-China trade war are two main factors that have led to the overseas expansion of Chinese brands.
While the explanation might certainly account for the boom in Chinese F&B brands here, it appears demand has also grown, with local palates warming up to the taste of these less common Chinese fare.
When contacted, Raymond Liu, managing director of Tanyu commented that the trend is not a new one. “Singaporeans have a real passion for spice, and they tend to enjoy these bold, flavourful dishes. It’s not a new trend – the demand has always been there, but with platforms like TikTok and Xiao Hong Shu, more people are discovering and talking about regional Chinese cuisines,” said Liu.
Chef Feng Guohua, founder of Nong Geng Ji, told AsiaOne through a spokesperson that the company had also noted the growing interest in regional Chinese cuisines beyond the familiar Cantonese and Sichuan flavours, “with Hunan cuisine gaining traction as part of this trend”.
He added that Hunan cuisine’s variety of dishes with its “bold, aromatic flavours” as well as their hearty soups, are similar to local zi char fare.
“Another factor [for the popularity of regional Chinese food] is the rise in travel to China, where more people get to try these dishes firsthand. That exposure has definitely fuelled curiosity and a growing appetite for authentic Chinese food,” said Feng, who affirmed that due to the cut-throat competition in China’s F&B industry, many brands are looking abroad.
But Feng believes that he’d made “the right decision” to have his first overseas outlet in Singapore.
“For us, expansion isn’t just about going global. It’s about doing it right, ensuring that every dish we serve stays true to the flavours we grew up with,” he said.
Feng added that they have also “learned a lot” through the experience. “Expanding here has helped us fine-tune our operations and understand what customers in different markets appreciate. These insights have made us stronger both internationally and back in China.”
Localising Chinese regional cuisine
Local mala tang eatery A Hot Hideout also appears to have capitalised on the trend. It expanded its footprint from a humble stall which started at Nanyang Technological University back in 2020 to its current seven outlets islandwide.
Its founders, who are young Singaporeans in their 20s, created what they term “new-gen mala” catered to the Singaporean palate.
Said its CEO, Lee Ray Sheng, or Ray: “When we started A Hot Hideout, we weren’t aiming to compete directly with the big Chinese brands. Instead, we focused on creating a localised version of mala tang, something familiar yet fresh for Singaporean palates.
“We toned down the numbing spice level to make the experience more balanced and enjoyable for our customers. That’s how our “new-gen mala” identity was born — modern, local and inclusive.”
Not only does Ray plan to introduce A Hot Hideout to more malls in Singapore, he also shared that a halal version of the eatery is in the pipeline.
Ray also noted that the younger generation especially have become “far more adventurous with food”.
“They’re heavily influenced by digital content and trends from online platforms such as Douyin, YouTube and Xiaohongshu. These platforms showcase Chinese food culture in a very immersive and visually appealing way,” observed Ray.
Individuals we spoke to also echoed Ray’s observations.
Lim Jiayi, a preschool educator in her 20s, shared that she eats from many of the aforementioned Chinese chain brands and has food such as mala twice a week.
She, too, had observed that China food concepts have grown in popularity over the years.
“In the past, I had to travel all the way to Chinatown just to get authentic Chinese food, but now, I can find it in most local shopping malls or even coffee shops,” said Jiayi, remarking on the convenience.
Besides crediting her secondary school friends from China for “kickstarting [her] love for China food”, she shared that social media played a big role in influencing her tastebuds as well.
A handful of people polled by AsiaOne agreed that besides social media influences, more Singaporeans are being exposed to Chinese cuisines through their travels. They also attributed the popularity of larger Chinese cuisine to the influx of mainland Chinese working in Singapore who have brought with them their food culture.
Other reasons cited were also that such cuisines are generally “value-for-money” as well as “tasty”, and the restaurants offer good service.
Chinese F&B brands near you
So while Haidilao needs no introduction, here are some other F&B brands specialising in Chinese cuisine that you might have seen pop up in a mall near you.
Nong Geng Ji
Nong Geng Ji opened its first overseas outlet in Singapore in 2023. Touted to be the largest Hunan restaurant chain with more than 100 stores globally, the restaurant serves signature Hunan dishes such as Stir-Fried Pork with Abalone and Chilli, and Big Shrimp with Vermicelli and Garlic.
Chamoon Hot Pot
The chain, which proclaims itself to be “China’s No.1 clear soup individual hotpot”, opened its doors here in September last year. With more than 30 outlets in China, its Singapore outpost located at Scotts Square is its first overseas branch. It’s known for its signature Truffle Based Matsutake Mushroom broth, Tomato as well as Singapore-exclusive Mala, with premium ingredients such as A4 Japanese Wagyu and live abalone on the menu.
Shu Da Xia Hotpot
The newest entrant on the proverbial block, Sichuan hotpot eatery Shu Da Xia has seen its presence mushroom across the Causeway before it made its debut in Singapore last month. The chain, which originates from Chengdu, boasts more than 600 outlets worldwide and purportedly ranks among China’s top 10 hotpot restaurants.
Tanyu
The Chinese grilled fish specialist from Shenzhen has nearly 300 outlets across 72 cities in China. It established its first restaurant in Singapore in 2017 and currently has five outlets across the island. Similar to a hotpot, the grilled fish comes in a steaming pot of typically spicy broth, to which patrons may add in a selection of ingredients.
Tai Er
Tai Er has more than 300 outlets worldwide, including four in Singapore. Not only is it famed for its sauerkraut fish and other Sichuan classics, the restaurant’s warm service and free-flow tea station, where customers can fix their own roselle orange peel tea, are also a welcomed touch.
Yang Guo Fu Malatang
Known as the “world’s largest mala tang chain,” according to the brand, Yang Guo Fu (YGF) arrived in Singapore in late 2020 and boasts an impressive global footprint of more than 6,000 franchised outlets. Its competitor, Zhang Liang Mala Tang, which entered the Singapore market earlier, closely follows with more than 5,000 outlets worldwide. YGF is renowned for its signature beef-based mala broth and its distinctive Mala Ban, where ingredients are tossed in a special mala sauce.
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candicecai@asiaone.com
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